Ariel Ambulance Rescue Group Logo

Ambulance Restoration
6/10/06 Photo Album

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Body: 23'3" x 7'2" x 4' 2"
weight: less than 20' I/O boat.
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Starboard hatch.
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Two sets of engine-mount holes. Missed the first time?
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Quilted black interior lining [remove, later replace].
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Cockpit
Hole in floor for chair? No, too far forward. For control stick/yoke?
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Speaking of panels, I realized the one we see in the caps which was probably mounted onto this frame can't be a pilot's overhead panel, `cause the pilot sits too far forward under the canopy. So there.
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Tail: 15' long (?)
weight: <300lbs.
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Tail's access hatch. We'll need a new cover.
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The tail center brace looks like it's glassed in pretty good and is as strong as the skin. We could run a pipe along the bottom of it, anchored within reach of the open end and near the far end through the access hatch. A square tube would work; anchor it inside the body with an engine stand or custom stand bolted through the body into the trailer.
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Panel goes in the front of the cockpit and blocks off the nose section. It looks like it fits in the front of AmbulanceCap051.
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The board laying on the deck in the cabin must've been the scab piece holding the two pieces of the aft bulkhead together. Whatever mount we come up with will have to compromise that bulkhead, as it seems to have been attached right at the aft edge of the deck (Obi?) and unless we want to punch through the body on the lower radius, the mount will have to be pretty much on the deck. Even if a bracket could be run along the bottom and angle up to place the mount behind the bulkhead, we'd still need to get back there on a regular basis.
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Where the tail attaches to the body.
We'll need a cover for transport.
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TAIL REATTACHMENT IDEAS:
  1. Pipe secured inside tail attaches to engine stand or custom mount inside body. Sketch
  2. Clean up and reinforce the bulkheads and bolt the tail to the body directly. Sketch A monopod crutch or bi-pod cradle could support the tail and relieve the forces on the bulkheads.
    1. The body mounting point appears to be the stronger of the two, judging by the bolts & pieces of the tail left in place when the scrappers ripped off the tail.
    2. That made the flange on the tail weak. Can we glass/glue in the wood to reinforce it?
    3. We would have to take out a chunk of the horizontal brace to allow the wood to be fit in, and the wood would need a big hole for access to the inside flange bolts.
    4. The flange bolt heads, even if we used something like carriage bolts & offset them, would probably cause a gap, as there's little or no inset of the body mounting flange.
    5. The flange bolt heads would crush the flange 'glass when the tail was snugged down.
    6. This design means that the weight of the tail will have to be held in position while the bolts are tightened, although certainly better than tightening 17 of 'em.


GENERAL RESTORATION THOUGHTS FOR EVERYBODY:
  1. Do we try to make the amb better, stronger, prettier than before, or try to replicate the original as close as possible, with all it's weaknesses?
  2. I think almost all of the amb parts could be cleaned up and reinforced & such, and not rebuilt/replaced.
  3. It wouldn't look as shiny, but it would be easier, cheaper and more authentic, with all the little warts that don't get noticed on screen.
  4. Like the collector car guys say: You can rebuild a car a dozen times; it's only original once.


TRANSPORTATION:





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Last Updated: Tuesday, July 4, 2006